G2931 Worthington Clear is a popular low to medium-fire transparent glaze recipe. It contains 55% Gerstley Borate (GB) plus 30% kaolin (GB melts at a very low temperature). GB is also very plastic, like a clay. I have thrown a pot from this glaze recipe! This explains why high Gerstley Borate glazes often dry so slowly and shrink and crack during drying. When recipes also contain a plastic clay like this one the shrinkage is even worse. GB is also slightly soluble, over time it gels glaze slurries even in smaller percentages. Countless potters struggle with Gerstley Borate recipes.

This is L4023F (a test body like our H440 cone 10R body). The polygons on this surface are produced when the 3D CAD software converts from its native format to an STL file that slicer software can use. These are the product of the default settings (which can be changed but increase file size). The precision of the 3D printer is evident in that it can reproduce these. Since the polygons are not visible in the final glazed piece, neither the PLA surface on the 3D printed block mold, or the surface of the plaster case mold made from it, were sanded.

Feldspars are employed in glaze recipes as melters. So comparing their melt fluidities should be helpful in deciding if one can substitute for another (of course, if possible a soda predominant feldspar should be substituted for another soda spar). Feldspars don't melt alone at cone 6 (2200F) so we mixed each with 15% Ferro Frit 3195. Nepheline Syenite is obviously the champion melter here. Other similar ones can be spotted easily. In the end, degree of melt is a valid consideration in determining if one feldspar is a viable substitute for another in a recipe. Even if the feldspar you want to substitute does not melt as much a little frit can be added to the recipe to make up for the difference (e.g. 3-5%).

Only three tile shapes were needed. The fish cutters were 3D printed to both cut and stamp at the same time. Multiple slightly different sizes of the triangle and trapezoid were made to accommodate irregularities and keep joints tighter. The clay is M340 and the glazes are Amaco Celadons and Potter's Choice (for brushing). These are small and we found that a good way to paint them was to glue them down to a plaster slab with a few drops of glaze (it was easy to scrape off when the three coats had dried).

This glaze is "stretched" on the clay so it cracks. When the lines are close together like this it is more serious. If the effect is intended, it is called "crackle" (but no one should intend this on functional ware). Potters, hobbyists and artists invariably bump into this issue whether using commercial glazes or making their own.

"Art language" solutions don't work, at least some technical words are needed to understand it. Crazing is a mismatch in the thermal expansions of glaze and body. Most ceramics expand slightly on heating and contract on cooling. The amount of change is very small, but ceramics are brittle and glazes are rigidly attached. If they are stretched on the ware cracks will occur to relieve the stress (usually during cooling in the firing but sometimes much later). All glaze manufacturers advise against crazing on functional ware.

We wanted to compare the melt fluidity of G2934Y (left) to G2934 (right). To do that we prepared GBMF test balls (see below). The forming and drying process leave a flat spot so the gumball-sized balls are easy to place on a porcelain tile. During firing they flatten out. The degree to which they do acts as a measure of the flow (when compared with another). Many characteristics that one would not observe on glaze tiles reveal themselves in this test. In this case, we needed to know if the melt flow was at least as good (and this proves it is better). Reactive glaze tend to be the norm in recent years, their primary characteristic is being runny (having high melt fluidity). Their fired character...

For many years we have searched for a credible alternative to our Lightnin lab mixer. We found this unit on Amazon but then bought it from FristadenLab in Nevada. These are made in China but packaged, documented, shipped and supported in Nevada. This cost about $300US (a programmable one costs a little more but this is the better option for ceramic slurries). The first impression is how heavy the unit is. The base is 1/4" solid steel. The rods are all solid stainless 5/8". The clamp is also solid metal. The shaft is 3/8" and is held in place by a good quality chuck which enables easy release. The propeller is about 2 1/2" in diameter and screws on, it would thus be easy to 3D print other propellers and mount them on a hex nut (e.g. to fit into glaze jars). The locking mechanism enables mounting at an angle (important when trying to achieve the highest speed without sucking air bubbles). It plugs in via a 24v DC adapter (which means it has a DC motor). When switched on it speeds up gradually and the dial offers fine control of speed. On this occasion, we mixed 3500g of plaster in this 2 IMP gallon bucket (2.5 US gallon) with no problem. It runs completely silent and should easily mix this pail full of glaze or casting slip. A propeller mix like this is a great start to DIY glazes.

Simply put: Glaze misfit. The glaze is under compression and it is pushing outward. That compression was created as these terra cotta pieces cooled in the kiln. After the glaze solidified, somewhere above red heat, it became a glass and began to contract. The body, to which that glaze is attached by a glass bond, had its own higher rate of contraction. The glaze has some advantages in this battle. Its thick application gives it extra power to assert its thermal expansion. The body is over-fired and has become brittle. The unglazed outsides, incised designs and varying thickness provide points of weakness where cracks can start. The body resists the relentless force from inside but the odds were stacked against it and the pieces do not even make it out of the kiln. Of course, the glaze could be applied thinner, ware could be fired lower, it could have a more even cross-section and the outsides could be glazed. All will help, but increasing the thermal expansion of the glaze (by increasing KNaO at the expense of other fluxes), is one change that would fix this issue.

Lilly will take you step-by-step through the 3D design process of drawing a propeller. We tried many methods of doing this to finally arrive at a simple procedure that produces a flexible parametric design. Follow the full transcript as you watch. Use the same process to create one in this or other CAD software. Our design has only nine steps yet is flexible enough to accommodate a different number of blades, changes in the blade shape, angle, thickness and size and different heights and diameters for the hub and hole.

Depending on the degree to which this can be secured to the shaft, it can be quite durable on a lab mixer, even for high speed mixing. Test, adjust the design and reprint until it is working well and then have a metal one printed at a 3D printing service provider.

Traditional 50:50 kaolin:silica kiln wash can be a real bummer to use. It flakes, both on drying and after every firing. Pieces of it stick to the feet of ware (plucking). It is not refractory enough either. Shelves need cleaning and rewashing often. Three outside-the-box ideas make this a better recipe.

#1 No raw clay! Strangely, calcined kaolin is better than raw kaolin, it imparts multiple advantages.
#2 No silica. We use zircon or alumina instead, they are more refractory. And we use 80%, not 50%.
#3 We add CMC gum. It is the hardener, it enables a high specific gravity, imparts awesome brushing properties and slows down drying on cordierite and alumina shelves.

The low water requirement and slow drying make this behave more like paint. It can be applied by roller or brush. Coverage is much more even and it does not shrink and crack on drying. Normally the raw kaolin in 50:50 kiln wash suspends the slurry, makes it brushable and hardens it on drying. But CMC gum is way better for the latter two. It is so nice to be able to apply a thin layer of wash even on highly porous shelves (like these alumina ones we make ourselves). Unfortunately, we can't have everything - a down side of this recipe is settling (more information on the recipe page linked below). Fortunately, if used every few days it won't be a problem.

This is not available as a product, we just like it so much we made a label for it!